OC.Extreme.Direct Die.mission compact

Well I did custom direct die for my p4, but now my AMD is jealous, so I will give her some medicine of coldness

well I will try to post as many pics as possible, to me it simple for people to learn how easy and fun phase change can be, maybe someone does a direct die beer cooler, I haven't seen that, I think that would be a nice idea, if done compact,

This one will be as compact as possible, and will be done on a xaser I that I had lying around, compact would be a top concern cause if it ain't compact I don't like it

and if anyone has questions, don't hesitage to ask, this is for you guys

compressor, 1/5, R-12


condensor, chop out of a big one I found


custom made evaporator with top and bottom channels, maze style

case, xaser I


drier, capillary .028ID 10', nuts, valves, unions


tools

Awesome, ive been waiting for an in depth guide! ;D

Wow, this should come right in time for me to do my direct-die setup as per his instructions. Right on!

SAFETY SHOULD ALWAYS BE FIRST!!!

Well guys

please remember to careful and try to be as careful as possible, as we only have one life that I know of, things to watch out for.

1. Always follow the direction on the bottles of dangerous gases, such as propane, mapp gas, refrerents, ect...

2. The system should only be fill, through the low side, never from the high side.

3. Safety glasses, and other wear protection should be used to protect your precious body parts.

4. Always try to work in a open environment.

5. Always have a bucket of water next to you.

6. When brazing parts try to use fire stones, cement can be dangerous if heated.

7. Ask questions of things that you are not too sure, there are no such stuped question, everything clear is the way to go.

well if any one has any suggestions feel free to posted them

well lets start

awsome dude! you're da man!

a good site that explain the basics of refrigeration



This is a picture from the above site to illustrated refrigeration.

It goes

Compressor>condensor>metering>evaporator, then back to compressor

In the METERING, we have the Filter>capillary or Filter>TXV

The Capillary is a small tube, its listed is the above pics, since is the smallest tube in the system it regurates the flow of refrigeration in the system,

The TXV is a a device that does the same thing as a capillary but it gets bigger or smaller, depending on the need of cooling

For the most part, TXV are good for chiller, because it gives the fastest pull down, but shouldn't be used in direct die cause they are big and the needle they use are too big

The CONDENSER, its where the high side, its located,

The EVAPORATOR, has the low side, and where the system should be fill.

So in summary.

The COMPRESSOR, compresses the refrerent and creates pressure on the high side, and the refrerent becomes liquid.

The capillary or TXV controls the refrerent that passes to the other side, the liquid evaporates when it reaches the low side,

This evaporation adsorbs heat, making cooling,

the refrerent goes back to the compressor, and the cycle begins again,

compressors, our target will have three parts to power it and operated it,



This picture shows how they look, they might look different put they are still the same in most compressors, capaciator, overload, and relay,

in ac compressors, the capacitor much bigger and the relay is also bigger,



now see can see the three plugs where the three parts are connected to it, all compressors will come with the parts needed to operate them,

C=common
R=run
S=start

but what can you do if the factory parts go bad or you just don't have them!



well they sell these tubes that are called, "3 IN 1", which means it has the three parts, capacitor, overload, and relay in one package, I only have seen the in the range up to 1/3, which happends to be our target

well for the setup I will be using R-22 because is cheap

R-22 is a good refrerent with nice low evaporation of -40c, and with some tweaking you can improve that, but the only draw back that I see with r-22 is that it has been found that at low temps it doesn't return the oil back to the compressor as effiecient as lets say r-404a

but I can help it by using a little R-290, which happends to be propane

remember in the system there shouldn't be any air, anyway so a little propane its not a problem, in many countries propane is used as a normal refrerent, so its not anything out of this world

Since the compressor was originally design for r-12, it uses mineral oil, which is compartible with r-22, r-290, and others, but is not compartible with r-134a, r-404a, and some others,

For tubing, I will be using 3/8"ID for the low side, and 1/4"ID for the high side,

For brazing everything, I use on the tubing white flux stay-silv brand, white bottle and 15% silver rods,

for the evaporator I use, black flux stay-silv, the bottle has black label, and 15% silver rods, I have try to use the white flux with the evaporator and it turns hard and doesn't work, because it is not design for prolong periods of heating

Ok,

the first step is to cut a hole on top 120mm for the fan



and this one, shows the fan and condenser on the case

well this one has the pic of the condenser with fan and the compressor inside,

the compressor has three lines

1. the bareone on the front

2. The one with a valve, this is a low side one(suction line), the system can be fill through this one

3. The last one is in the back that goes up to be connected to the condenser, pressure line

Ok first dumb question. How can you tell what type of refrigerant the compressor uses if it is not contained in the specs on the side of the compressor. I ask becasue I recently aquired a soda fountain cooler and it doesn't seem to indicate the refrigerant used like most frigs I have seen. This is what it does state:

C-M60L2A

V 115
Hz 60
Ph 1

07073 SY (The "sy" is in box in bold and caps)

I would appreciate some help on this as I am newb to phase change, and while I do have some knowledge regarding air conditioning principles this is foreign territory. On the birght side it is already setup and it seems to run

now thats a tought one

I did a search for it but found nothing,

I tell the info on the compressor by charts that should be with the setup, telling the pressures, amount of gas, ect, and most compressor that I use state general info such as refrerent so you know that type of oil it uses, and no mistakes are made,

in some cases you can determine refrerent use, example,

all new coolers, such as sodas, beers, will use r-134a,
all new cars used r-134a

all the old cars I have seen uses r-12, and also do sodas freezers, and fridges

all air conditioners that I have seen all uses r-22

well I'm sorry, that I couldn't be completely sure but my only guess would be r-12 if is old, if is new then r-134a,

but if you need to use it in a new setup and need to refill it, If it was me, them I will 100% go with r-290(propane), cheap, and 100% compartible with the oil

edit: its that all the info on the compressor?, if you see any more info let me know, if that all, its ok, I will check with more sources, and will get back to you

Thanks I appreciate the help and the input, appears to be old and I still have yet to break it down, so I may uncover more on disassembly. I don't plan on using it for direct die, but a very compat water chiller. I figure this being my first jump into the vapor cooling arena I wanted to start off outside the case.

Isn't propane flammable

I would go on but I don't want to jack this thread, and its about time someone put a little DIY on this stuff for us in the dark I do believe I will post seperate one.

Archangel8, I really don't mind helping out

about propane yes is flammable

but small quantity won't hurt that much

remember no air, no fire = no problem

well took a break and start to work some more, and decide to put a acumulator, is just a bigger size tube to help all the refrerent to evaporate so no liquid goes back to compressor



the hole at the bottom will be to enter the capillary, so it can run inside the suction line, and super cool it and help out with temps

well

the next step would be to select a flexible suction line,

i have try many different one and haven't found a perfect one yet

I have try the hoses from rparts.com and found them expensive, rigid, and big, and if you need a lenghth change, you were mesh up

ordered some hoses from amazon.com and the f**** send them with the wrong fittings, and since they are custom made I will just have to hang them in my room to collect dust

well also try normal refrigeration charging hoses and found that they might leak over a period of time

so I said like this guy from the Joe smug show or whatever is called, WHATS GOING ON!

so I just to a walk to homedepot see whats cooking, and found these babies

and here they are ready for brazing need to its new connectors



and here it is brazed with capillary+acumulator

Question? Where do you buy your brazing rods from and do you use a flaring tool to make the female side of the threaded joints or do you buy them premade?

looks like a great project. keep up the great work and dont forget pics

well I got my rods from a local refrigeration store, and I have a flaring tool, you can see the pic on top, with the tube cutter,

and thanks nico3k for the encouragement