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W/C pic for my rig, 1st time setting up W/C

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GeneralMac

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Location
Anderson, South Carolina
what i have:
CPU-Extreme Edition 965 Nehalem 3.2GHz
Mobo-EVGA X58 SLI Classified
Case-Thermaltake VG4000SWA Xaser VI
Psu-Kingwin Mach 1 - 1000-Watt, ATX, SLI-Ready
Whats to come:
Mem-Corsair TR3X6G2000C7GTF DOMINATOR GT-(on waiting list)
Gpu-GeForce GTX 295 Red Edition (x2)-(OUCH!)(OUCH!)


My pick for Water cooling: (after lots of reading)
ThermoChill PA120.3 3x120mm High Performance Radiator
ThermoChill PS120.3 shroud for PA120.3 Triple Radiator
7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band w/Liner)
EK-BAY SPIN Reservoir - Plexi
HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1366
HEATKILLER® Backplate 1366
EK Waterblocks EK-FC295 GTX SLI - Acetal+Nickel
Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump - with Speed Controller

minus the fans and fittings does this sound right?
thanks
 
what i have:
CPU-Extreme Edition 965 Nehalem 3.2GHz
Mobo-EVGA X58 SLI Classified
Case-Thermaltake VG4000SWA Xaser VI
Psu-Kingwin Mach 1 - 1000-Watt, ATX, SLI-Ready
Whats to come:
Mem-Corsair TR3X6G2000C7GTF DOMINATOR GT-(on waiting list)
Gpu-GeForce GTX 295 Red Edition (x2)-(OUCH!)(OUCH!)


My pick for Water cooling: (after lots of reading)
ThermoChill PA120.3 3x120mm High Performance Radiator
ThermoChill PS120.3 shroud for PA120.3 Triple Radiator
7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band w/Liner)
EK-BAY SPIN Reservoir - Plexi
HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1366
HEATKILLER® Backplate 1366
EK Waterblocks EK-FC295 GTX SLI - Acetal+Nickel
Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump - with Speed Controller

minus the fans and fittings does this sound right?
thanks
Did ya forgot the pics?
 
Wait, u plan on using one radiator to water cool an i7 and a video card ? if u are and i got that right , u should forget about it ,will need 2 of those rads .
 
Good looking list, quality parts.

Missing a second loop for just the GPU's. The rad you chose is a VERY good one and can cool 400 watts with low speed fans with a good water temp. You can get 600 watts out of it with high speed fans with a bit of increase to the water temp. Unfortunately the TWO 295's alone will easily make 500+ watts of heat, then another 130+ (close to 200 with overclocks on the CPU). If you tried to run that one rad your water temps would be VERY poor and your CPU would run so hot under load you couldn't even run it at stock speeds.

So you need TWO rads of the type you mention, and even then your water temps will impact your CPU temps.

I highly suggest your run TWO fully seperate loops. Thats what I'm doing with my i7 and two GTX280s.
 
Did ya forgot the pics?

picks not pics :)


yes you are going to want separate loops for best results.

if it's 1 GTX 295 and a i7 then i think you could get away with a feser quad but if you can afford it and have the space 2 loops will result in better temps and overclocks.
 
picks not pics :)


yes you are going to want separate loops for best results.

if it's 1 GTX 295 and a i7 then i think you could get away with a feser quad but if you can afford it and have the space 2 loops will result in better temps and overclocks.

from the title" W/C pic for my rig, 1st time setting up W/C
 
from the title" W/C pic for my rig, 1st time setting up W/C

I am sure it is a typo.


OP; running two of those heaters, I mean video cards, you will definatly want a second loop, which means you'll need another rad and pump.
 
thanks all,
a second rad and will go ahead w/2nd loop thanks again i wouldnt have gotten this far without the forums help and all those wounderfull "STICKIES"


sorry about the typo sopossed to be picks
 
Last edited:
Looks like a quality list and it seems like you have money to spend, but why not loose the shroud(s) and use something like masterkleer rather than tygon? Thermochill themselves say that you will only gain 2% in performance with the shrouds and that they are not necessary. Also, even though tygon is flexible and all, masterkleer will do the same thing at a much lower price. Just dropping those two things will save you $35+, especially if your buying two shrouds. That will pay for all of your fittings or be a significant chunk of your next PA120.3.
 
right in lite that your going with 2 loops you can drop the shroud. you only need it when you are trying to get as much as you can from the rad.

and while i've never used tygon i just got 7/16" ID masterkleer and so far its nice. 10 feet for 5.90, yes please!
 
Looks like a quality list and it seems like you have money to spend, but why not loose the shroud(s) and use something like masterkleer rather than tygon? Thermochill themselves say that you will only gain 2% in performance with the shrouds and that they are not necessary. Also, even though tygon is flexible and all, masterkleer will do the same thing at a much lower price. Just dropping those two things will save you $35+, especially if your buying two shrouds. That will pay for all of your fittings or be a significant chunk of your next PA120.3.

Thanx for all the posts,
all info is most helpfull. although this is not my first build, it is my first attempt at water cooling.

about the money:bang head, half from taxes, one quater saved, and one quater girlfriend....now im doing dishes mopping floors and saying yes honey what next lol:bang head....for the next 3 years
 
about the money:bang head, half from taxes, one quater saved, and one quater girlfriend....now im doing dishes mopping floors and saying yes honey what next lol:bang head....for the next 3 years
Wow. Now that's a steep interest rate. Did you shop around? I hear most banks are giving signature loans at what could be considered ok interest rates. And I doubt they'd have you do dishes.

:beer:
 
You can save by cutting back a bit. Instead of the PA rads (unless your EU) get the MCR320's from swiftech. You can save about half on rads with them and they are about 90% as good. Many many run them and are happy with them.

You can save a bit more with a lesser resiviour, but the one your getting is fine, but it's crazy expensive in comparison to the Swiftech res.

One last thing.... How are gonna mount it all? I guess just take your time and figure it out. Many run setups like that.

I'm gonna have a 965 D0 ES (from a special friend) and two GTX 280s.

Two 120x3 rads, two pumps etc etc. But gonna use this to build it:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/miba101clmoc.html

"Yes Honey" is a good thing, been saying that for 25 years and it still works. Now if I could just remember her real name... I know it's not Honey.
 
You can save by cutting back a bit. Instead of the PA rads (unless your EU) get the MCR320's from swiftech. You can save about half on rads with them and they are about 90% as good. Many many run them and are happy with them.

You can save a bit more with a lesser resiviour, but the one your getting is fine, but it's crazy expensive in comparison to the Swiftech res.

One last thing.... How are gonna mount it all? I guess just take your time and figure it out. Many run setups like that.

I'm gonna have a 965 D0 ES (from a special friend) and two GTX 280s.

Two 120x3 rads, two pumps etc etc. But gonna use this to build it:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/miba101clmoc.html

"Yes Honey" is a good thing, been saying that for 25 years and it still works. Now if I could just remember her real name... I know it's not Honey.

Good advice here. I forgot to mention the MCR320.

You could cut the costs way down if you went with some minor changes. Going from PA120.3 to MCR320s, no shrouds, masterkleer tubing, and a swiftech res would be a substantial sum. I also bet the difference in performance would be little.
 
We all got tric into here :p.

MCR320 is very close to others in term of cooling ability.
 
I'd also recommend the MCR320. I have one that's cooling my E3110 and 4870X2 really, really well. Idle temps for the CPU are in the low 30s, GPUs idle around 32-38. Load temps with Furmark and OCCT are 45 for the CPU and 40ish for the GPUs. Really excellent radiator.
 
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