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Evga GTX260 c216 55nm from air to water (56k go away!)

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EarthDog

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
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Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
Well, I got my step up from 65nm to 55nm. Yeah, I know that sounds silly especially seeing as how the voltage program from evga may never work on these cards, but I just didnt have the cash to get a 285 at this time. Anyway, stock clocks on 100% fan after some quick furmark runs got me up to 729/1566/1215.

Anyway, here are some pictures of the card, and the transition to watercooling.

Clockspeeds Achieved:

Initial on air (100% fan): 729/1566/1215
Water, stock volts (1.06): 771/1656/1215
Water, bios volt modded (1.12): 810/1656/1215


Anyway, here are some pix of the card and its progress...

Card Stock Front:


Card stock Back:


Card Seperated from HS/F:


Nekkid' Ram:
 
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The pictures below are the process of prepping the card for water...

MCW60 w/GT200 bracket prepped with TIM:


Closeup of most of the sinks:


Other side closeup of ramsinks:


Mounted pre install (remainder of sinks installed on hotspots, just forgot to snap pix, see below):


Card mounted in my system (ignore the poor wire management):


Closeup of the card and proof I wasnt BSing you about the other ramsinks installed ;):



Here is the volt mod method I used:

DL the newest version of Nibitor and NvFlash.

1. I used the latest version of Nibitor to capture the bios.
2. Save original bios.
3. Edit the EXTRA voltage in nibitor. Since Im on water, I upped the 3d voltage from 1.05 to 1.06 to make sure it will hold stable with the higher clocks in 3d with no load.
4. Saved edited bios as a different name.
5. Made a bootable Flash disk (can be done with a floppy/cd/dvd)
6. Created a folder named NV (you can name it w/e) within the flash disk
7. Put NvFlash and your stock bios and edited bios in the NV folder.
8. Boot to the flash (cd/dvd/floppy)
9. From that command prompt, type CD NV (or w/e you named your folder)
10. Then type NVFLASH -5 -6 NEWBIOS.ROM. (There is a force command but I dont remember what it is off the top of my head)
11. The flash should start and then say successful.
12. Reboot and go into Nibitor to confirm the changes.

USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Some great advice about the Ramsinks and other stuff from Jason4207:
If you're having trouble getting the RAMsinks to stick try some Goo-Gone or Goof-Off. You still have to scrub pretty hard, and then use some alcohol to clean everything up. If they still don't stick well then twist the RAMsink back and forth and the thermal tape should get up the remainder of the grease. You'll have to replace the thermal tape after that, though.
Click to expand...

Anybody on air or stock cooling should be able to do this mod as well if you have a vanilla or SC card to get some SSC potential w/o very much risk. Just make sure you only change the drop-down voltages on the 'Exact' tab under the 'Voltages' tab. Do nothing on the 'VID Mode' tab. You can also play w/ the fan speed under the 'Temperatures' tab -> 'Fanspeed IC' button if you want a more aggressive fan profile. Automatic Speed, TMin-52*, min Duty cycle-55%, TRange slope-32*, Acoustic Enhancement-17.6sec is the way I set mine.
Click to expand...

Misc helpful notes about this experience so far:
Definitely put some sinks on those little chips to the right of the yellow circles. They get hot as Hades!
Click to expand...

After you get it running take your pinky, and touch various chips very carefully while the card is stressed and if any thing burns you then put a sink on it.
Click to expand...
 
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Are you going to put more HS on the following? I would if you were not going to.

pic.jpg
 
Looks like a fun project, I like the pics; is the inlet/outlet too low for heatsinks on the memory chips right below them?
 
Yes, I only bought 2 sets of those ramsinks and fell at least 3 short. Though the ones circled in the picture werent actively cooled by the heatsink IIRC. The smaller ones to the right were however. I will confirm later.

For the sinks by the in/out ports, they will likely need a little dremel action yes. That is the reason why I did not put them on yet. :)

EDIT: After looking at my picture, they were not in contact with the heatsink however the airflow from the fan whisked that heat away. I have a sidefan on the 1200 so that shouldnt be an issue. if Im not getting better clocks, that will be the first place I look! :)

EDIT2: These ramsinks dont NOT want to stick to the ram... I cleaned those things off like 3 times and they STILL wont stick. Time to whip out some super glue. :(
 
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Try upping the voltage in Rivatuner with the plugin, it works a treat and will help to overclock more, as your temps should be fine now. Currently on my GTX295 I am using EVGA Voltage Tuner for 1.1V (from 1.0375) which is now up to 750Mhz core benchable (just gets amazingly toasty, hopefully the next 40nm dual gpu card won't overheat like this bad boy ; )) from 575Mhz.
 
I dont think that works for the 55nm cards b/c of the voltage regulator differences...right? If it does work (or not really, I dont care) where is that plug in found?

I know the evga tuner works for 295s b/c its that Volterra VR.

EDIT: Negative. :( http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=217002

My only hope would be to flash to a SSC bios as those supposedly have a little more voltage added in...
 
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That is a shame, I guess the flashing will work as yours is EVGA, you can also sell it later on as a "SSC flashed" rather than a vanilla ; ) when you upgrade
 
Yeah those clocks were Furmark stable for about 10 mins... WAY better then the holdover 55nm I got. That thing wouldnt run f@H at 1458 shaders!
 
Caligula420 said:
Yes, I only bought 2 sets of those ramsinks and fell at least 3 short. Though the ones circled in the picture werent actively cooled by the heatsink IIRC. The smaller ones to the right were however. I will confirm later.

For the sinks by the in/out ports, they will likely need a little dremel action yes. That is the reason why I did not put them on yet. :)

EDIT: After looking at my picture, they were not in contact with the heatsink however the airflow from the fan whisked that heat away. I have a sidefan on the 1200 so that shouldnt be an issue. if Im not getting better clocks, that will be the first place I look! :)

EDIT2: These ramsinks dont NOT want to stick to the ram... I cleaned those things off like 3 times and they STILL wont stick. Time to whip out some super glue. :(
Click to expand...

Definitely put some sinks on those little chips to the right of the yellow circles. They get hot as Hades!

After you get it running take your pinky, and touch various chips very carefully while the card is stressed and if any thing burns you then put a sink on it.

If you're having trouble getting the RAMsinks to stick try some Goo-Gone or Goof-Off. You still have to scrub pretty hard, and then use some alcohol to clean everything up. If they still don't stick well then twist the RAMsink back and forth and the thermal tape should get up the remainder of the grease. You'll have to replace the thermal tape after that, though.

This has worked for me after countless trial and error.
 
Will do.. currently she is still outside the rig...I want to get all the sinks installed first. She may go in tonight, with some bios flashing this weekend for extra volts. Currently it sits at 1.06 Extra. Im going to bump that to 1.12 after I see how much the clocks improve just under water.
 
Well, under water so far 771/1656/1215. Stock volts. ;)

Temps idle were 33C. Under Furmark load at the above clocks with F@H SMP running (4 cores 100% CPU) 40C.

Stable there for 10 mins. I would assume I could slam an 06 run at those speeds...Im going to try that out now. I'll post some pix of the loop later.
 
Damn... memory hit its limit at 1215. Core and shader are hanging in there though at 810/1656. I havent pushed past that yet as I am looking at the memory.

06 with only 3.6Ghz CPU is 18.5k.

Oh this is after the volt mod... I bumped extra to 1.12 and 3d to 1.06 (from 1.05). I think I still have room to go on core/shaders.
 
DL the newest version of Nibitor and NvFlash.

1. I used the latest version of Nibitor to capture the bios.
2. Save original bios.
3. Edit the EXTRA voltage in nibitor. Since Im on water, I upped the 3d voltage from 1.05 to 1.06 to make sure it will hold stable with the higher clocks in 3d with no load.
4. Saved edited bios as a different name.
5. Made a bootable Flash disk (can be done with a floppy/cd/dvd)
6. Created a folder named NV (you can name it w/e) within the flash disk
7. Put NvFlash and your stock bios and edited bios in the NV folder.
8. Boot to the flash (cd/dvd/floppy)
9. From that command prompt, type CD NV (or w/e you named your folder)
10. Then type NVFLASH -5 -6 NEWBIOS.ROM. (There is a force command but I dont remember what it is off the top of my head)
11. The flash should start and then say successful.
12. Reboot and go into Nibitor to confirm the changes.

USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!!!!!
 
Were there more VIDs or did you just edit VID-2 and VID-3? From my experience w/ the G92 8800's last year if you edit VID-3 to a different value it doesn't actually change the voltage...it only changes the label for the VID. VID-3 is always a predetermined voltage value that you cannot change. On the 8800GT's VID-2 was set as the default 'Extra' voltage, and you could select VID-3 to get a bit more juice...changing the labels for VID-2 and VID-3 did nothing. If there was a VID-4 you would be able to go up to that voltage. I even added VID-4, VID-5,..., VID-8 to the Hex BIOS code myself...there was empty space in there begging for it to work...but it did nothing. I believe the VID code is only 2-bit, and that's why anything over VID-3 is futile.

Have you confirmed the extra voltage is there with a DMM?

As far as I know the only way to get more voltage on the 55nm 260 and 285 is w/ hard mods. There is a fairly easy hard mod for the 285...the 260-55nm might have a similar mod.



Caligula420 said:
DL the newest version of Nibitor and NvFlash.

1. I used the latest version of Nibitor to capture the bios.
2. Save original bios.
3. Edit the EXTRA voltage in nibitor. Since Im on water, I upped the 3d voltage from 1.05 to 1.06 to make sure it will hold stable with the higher clocks in 3d with no load.
4. Saved edited bios as a different name.
5. Made a bootable Flash disk (can be done with a floppy/cd/dvd)
6. Created a folder named NV (you can name it w/e) within the flash disk
7. Put NvFlash and your stock bios and edited bios in the NV folder.
8. Boot to the flash (cd/dvd/floppy)
9. From that command prompt, type CD NV (or w/e you named your folder)
10. Then type NVFLASH -5 -6 NEWBIOS.ROM. (There is a force command but I dont remember what it is off the top of my head)
11. The flash should start and then say successful.
12. Reboot and go into Nibitor to confirm the changes.

USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
 
Sorry, thought you were asking about the process!

There was a drop down on that voltage tab for extra. I did not edit any VID. I have not confirmed it with a DMM, I will tonight however.

BUT my clocks were limited (see prior posts). After this flash, I got significantly more on core/shaders. Have you ever seen a 55nm 260 216 get these clocks with stock voltage? Even in Hwbot the 810 core is WAY up there, not many orange dots in that range.
 
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