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First Mod: Make the Rad Fit (56k warning)

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Hsnopi

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Location
Maryland
So I purchased an Antec P182 case and i am water cooling using a Feser triple rad. I am not original. I blatently stole the idea from this thread...here.

I am going to have the fans blow into the case. but enough talking. here are pics. FYI I wasn't going to take pics and post this but someone threatened to ban me if I didn't post them:)

My Office while in production. Usually much cleaner. You will see at the end.
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The case in the garage. I had already started work and cut out the top in the shape of the rad frame.
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The top view roughly cut out. I used a dremel for the plastic. It was thick as hek. and a jig saw for the case metal.
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A closeup of the rough cut out. You can see there is a lot of cleaning to do.
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After some serious dremel grinding and cleaning. NOTE: See the safety glasses? Use Them! I would have been poked in the eye by hot metal several times if I didn't.
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Wonder how I got that wierd shape?
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More Later. I am in the process of blowing out all the bits. Then I need to wipe it down and bolt it into place. I had marked the shape with a sharpie but it marred the case. not sure what to do about it.
 
All cleaned out and ready to go.
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Radiator Mounted...
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Inside View. I had a hell of a time lining up and drilling the holes to screw the rad ot the case.
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The base had a partition wiht a 120mm fan. I took that out for more working room.
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parts/...
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and tools
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The stock cooler part. These are the only two screws I need to remove. Pretty Nice.
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Removed. Kinda Icky! Needs to be cleaned.
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With this!
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And now it looks like this:)
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Applied Ceramique
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The new block applied:)
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All the parts in the case.
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The tubing in place:)
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The res I hooked up with industrial velcro so i can pull it out for easier filling.
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Time for leak testing again! Note NO cables are hooked to the mobo or vid cards. and they won't be.:)
 
course i just realized i have the in and out hooked up backwards:) time to fix that!
 
Nice. I just purchased some water cooling gear myself and I am figuring out how to get it all into that same case. I have thought about either putting the rad on top like you did or off of the back. Still trying to figure that one out.
 
You should also move the res before the pump, it won't help to have it after.
 
Thideras: yeah, i did have it that way. In the last pic i had the input and output hooked up backwards. I fixed it.

Insane Scyth: I had the same issue. the rear mount is nice but I thought it woud get int he way of the plugs and such. A top mount, for me solved two problems. It let me keep airflow inside the case and left the rear open for plugs. The downside was cutting that hole. I actually enjoyed that but man I was worried when I first started cutting. I saw one setup where the guy mounted the rad and fans 2" above the top of the case on posts so he didn;t have to cut a hole. It looked nice really. I am thi9nking about using a sharpie to make the fans black as well. Either way, just go for it!
 
Well it turns out the swiftech leaked. I started another thread about it but the end result is I am selling the swiftech and getting a Danger Den MC-TDX. Please don't pm me about the swiftech to buy it as it is apparently not legit to do that. After a long discussion some feel the block is fine but I am not working to make a block work that should already work. Never had that issue with danger den. Someone mentioned something about thread types and that seems to be the differeence. I need to look that up.

So I am just hoping right now that the leak did not destroy my vid card. that would make me cry a lot.
 
I would also recommend the water go from the pump to the radiator then to your components. Pumps add heat to the water in form of pump work.
 
nice setup.

by the looks of the NB block design it looks like you should put back in the 2 screws you removed on the original hs so that the nb is camped between the block and the backplate. but i may be lookin at it wrong.
 
I like how you have the pump mounted below i bet that makes it a little easier to manage cables and such. Good build!
 
thanks all.

the NB block comes with it's own hex screws because it is taller than the original mounting plate. The screws are actually 1 mm too tall so I had to add a couple small washers to make it snug.
 
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