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My first WC setup, please comment

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MuthaF

Registered
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Well, to cut to the chase, I own:
Q9550, 4GB RAM
Asus P5E3(X38)
Ati 4870x2
which I'd like to WC obviously :)
my priorities:
1.silence
2.performance

after lots of input from Conumdrum, and my own research, I dare to propose this setup (from DD):
DD12V-D5 Pump Variable Speed(MCP-655)
DDC Acrylic Pump Top
DD-4870-X2 Water Block
Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir
Thermochill PA120.3
MC-TDX for Intel 775 CPU/Boards

ATX Power Supply Bypass Adapter 1. fan(s)
Tygon 1/2 tubing, clamps, liquid additiv.

Got two questions though:
1. Fan(s)
I would choose Papst 4312L 120mm Fan (probably with Rheostat)
question: Is one enough?
2. chipset top
- is MPC-X38/X48 okey for Asus P5E3

Please let me know if i'm missing something, if the whole setup makes sense, and also -if possible- if its gonna be powerfull enough(pump/heat dissip. wise) and most importantly SILENT (like 30 dBA)
P.S.: external radiator has no kind of cage/grid or am i missing something?
 
Glad ya made it here. Many more actual WC folks here.

Pump top: The stock one on your pump is fine, you can get another top but no need. the MCP655 is a fine pump, no worries. You could get the MCP355 with an aftermatket top, it has a bit better flow and pressure. Not needed tho. Petras has a nice selection if you wanna look.

Good GPU block.

The bay res pretty much sucks. Prone to leakage and the barbs are poor. Please look at the Swiftech micro res or a EK cylinder res, I got the 100 and it's too short for me, the 150 is perfect.

Lookies here to see what I mean.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pumps.html

Other nice shopping places.
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

Great rad, you DO need special barb threads for that rad, DD has them.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=352&cat=104&page=1

CPU block. There are 3 popular ones the DD, the Fuzion V2 and the GTZ. You'll hear that the GTZ has the best mounting system. Or was it the V2?

What is the bypass adaptor?
10' min of tubing, one hose clamp per barb +2 as spares, Distilled water (wallgreens) and a bottle of Petras PT nuke.

The CPU and GPU blocks come with good barbs.

Fans. 3 quality meduim fans with a fan controller is fine. Don't get massive high CFM fans, you don't need them or the noise. Thats why you get a quality rad that works great with quiet fans, and you have done that.

Chipset (NB) block.... I don't know that one. You do know if you WC your NB, you'll be pulling the HS off the NB, Mosfets, SB too? Meaning you'll have to cool the mosfets and SB too. Try to NOT WC the NB at first, a decent spot cooler fan on top of the NB should be okay. Otherwise you'll have to buy heatsinks for the mosfets and SB. Thats more hassle and cost. Look at the Antec SpotCool for a neat way to cool the NB heatsink.

Radgrill covers. I just got 3 wire covers and 3 filters from Petras. Many many many choices, just be careful on a 3 piece full cover grill. The PA rads have a bit diff fan spacing.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/fanfilters.html

Lastly, please look at all the build logs you can especially with your case to see how peeps do it. Also, make sure you understand installation tricks, filling, bleeding, and maintenace.
 
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i've got no experience with that cylinderres byt i love the microres from swiftec
 
I've got the Apogee GTZ for my Q9550. You've got to have your MB loose as their is a base installed on the back side of the MB. But it is a very foolproof system, paste a line of your thermal compound on the processor and then tighten (alternately a bit at a time) the 4 screws until they bottom out on the base. I've never seen temps over 45C with Passmark loads, but not yet OC'd. I also have the DD GPU waterblock for an ATI 4870. Easy install and looks like a very well designed block. Also, had a couple of problems with some clamps from DD, but they went the extra mile to make sure I was a happy camper - great to do business with!
 
Thanks for insights,
my (almost) final setup:

DD-4870-X2 Water Block
Thermochill PA120.3
Swiftech MCP655 12 VDC Pump
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir
Swiftech Apogee GTZ Intel s775

outstanding issues, advice welcomed:
fans - i dont really get it - Papst Fans are VERY silent, 30 dBA at max which i dont plan to run at anyway; far more silent on lower RPM
most probably PAPST 4412FGL - Silent Pro x3

Rheobus-
Was thinking very utility driven(my kind of thing) Sunbeam Rheobus EXTREME(6x30W) (for fans and pump(26W)). Although 6 channels is a way overkill :)

Water Cooling monitoring
Is it worth it? Is it actually useful? If so, any tips? (would prefer WC monitor+rheobus in one)
Thanks again, hoping for more feedback :)
 
You don't need any thing for the pump as far as a reobus. Just connect a molex to it. It has a variable pot on it to change speeds as long as you are getting the 655 Vario or also known as (B). And running low amp fans you don't need a massive fan controller, but that is a nice one. yea, those are good fans you chose. Good ones.

The monitoring thingies out thee pretty much suck. These pumps run years with no problems. Don't worry about it.
 
Okey, so this looks like a final shopping list:

DD-4870-X2 Water Block
Thermochill PA120.3
Swiftech MCP655 12 VDC Vario Pump
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir
Swiftech Apogee GTZ Intel s775
3x PAPST 4412FGL - Silent Pro
Lian Li Rheobus Fan Controller 5.25"
12x Tygon 3603 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Clear Tubing
16x Koolance Hose Clamp [19mm, 3/4" OD]
H2O+additiv.
some rad/vent cover after successful montage

Please check tubing/clamps quantity/packaging, kinda confused by non SI units that are really lame/outdated (no offence Burma, Liberia and USA) ;)

well, seems thats it

- btw. bypass adaptor is for testing WC loops outside switched on PC with pc power supply (bypassin motherboard supply) - not really needed, just useful sometimes
 
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You might consider buying the Silver Antimicrobial Tygon instead of the 3603. It's more expensive but it looks real good and the silver will keep the algae and microbes killed off. And instead of a bypass adapter you can just use a piece of wire to jump the green wire on the atx connector to a black to start the psu.
 
Franky I'm more concerned with quantity I ordered, but thanks for tip, gonna look into it
 
Yea, I use the Tygon silver. It's ugly as heck grey but the standard clouding tubes get can't be seen at least. It's not needed, it's extra insurance. I think few use it and there are few issues of growth in a well maintained loop, so yea it's cool, not needed. It costs quiet a bit more. 12' is plenty and gives you extra for boo-boos and changes in the loop.

You'll want to buy new barbs with the micro-res, I think they are plastic. Also, make sure you get the RIGHT barbs for the TC rad, they are different threads and I think it comes with no barbs. Those clamps will work. The CPU and GPU block come with fine barbs, so no worry there. And the o-ring is all you need to seal, please don't use plubmers tape, it's not needed. I think you'll only need 10 clamps. CPU/GPU/Pump/Rad/Res x 2. But no harm in having a few extra, so 16, sure. Lots of us use these, but yours are fine. Glad your going with 1/2 ID. It works fine. Using 7/16 ID is just such a pain to get on and off. Maybe next time I'll use 7/16, I'm due for a major maintenance tear down in December, and my liquid is xtal clear over the last 4 months.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/ststwohoclwb.html

What are you using to clean the GPU mem chips? The pads they use leave a oily residue. There are things at the store you can use (Goof off?), but I use (as others do) Artic Clean. Look it up, cheap, the bottles last a long time. Great to prep any install before you put TIM pads or paste. Ohh TIM paste. I use MX-2, decent, works well.

While you decide your final list look up all you can about building the loop, inspecting your parts, cleaning the rad!!!!!, and just the basics of an install. For example I opened my pump to inspect it and found pieces of packing foam in it...... Stuff like that. You'll spend over an hour cleaning the flux outta your rad just to be sure. And never ever get alcohol on any acrylic part. Crack............. These are the things ya learn, hopefully from reading, not doing, hehe. Wiping your hands before messing with a copper block with alcohol to get rid of hand oils (in time will discolor your GPU block, I know).

Don't ever let your pump run dry when you fill the loop. The tiny ceramic bearing will go poof. Add water, bump pump, add water, bump pump repeat till the loop is pretty full. It could take two days to get rid of all the bubbles. When the loop is fully bubble free, it's soo quiet.

Your gonna love it, the drop in noise and the super temps will make you happy ya did go water. Ohh it took me a FULL weekend to install my first WC. 4-5 hours to mount, cut hose length, figure out clamps, then just pull it all out of the case and layed it down away from any parts etc, then leak test all night. Reinstall (using TIM paste) etc. into case next day and leak test 5+ hours. THEN finally powered up the full system. The reason I did the first step is caution. I had to learn how to put on hoses, what amount to tighten clamps, how to bleed the air out, and just cautious. No rush when it's a $500 GPU eh? Any later builds I passed up the first step, it goes right onto the mobo with TIM, but I still leak test with paper towels for HOURS before powering it all up.

There is no reason you can't practice installing the CPU or GPU block with no TIM, cutting 4" of hose and seeing how much strain it takes to get hose on, how the clamps work. Opening the CPU block with the care of a watchmaker and marvelling at the craftmanship and finding a gasket that need trimmed....... Hooking the pump up with some hose to a full sink full of water and spraying the kitchen because it's a lot more flow than you imagined. LOL, my wife will never forget handing me a mop.... Or will she ever stop reminding me, she's great.

It's a hobby, no rush. Enjoy.

/Ramble off................................
 
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Thanks a lot for feedback and advices
Installation/maintance part - took a quick look at it already, gonna read it in depth during the 1-3 week(s) untill my order arrives, still waiting for banking details from http://www.performance-pcs.com (found there everything except for Radiator), so lotta time till then :)
Yeah, I expect it gonna take me few days till I got WC running on PC, I guess we all take it slowly and marvel at every novelty piece of hardware we got for our PCs :)
Im pretty impressed by my quite new Philips amBX system - it took me 15 minutes to instal, although its just few cables and USB :)
Sure I would reccommend it, if only Ambi lights from it, its cheap (like 100$) and great for music/movies/games :D
Ok, thank you again, without yo help I'd lost a lot of $ on Reserators/thermaltake stuff like; gotta make that order ASAP :)
 
good luck with your build and like conumdrum said do take your time
it's well spendt time instead of might getting trouble with leaks and so on

oh ya i know exactly that expression from getting the mopp handed over conumdrum i too did got it handed to my hands hehe ;-))
 
Well, order send, now just have to wait... (oh, that non-patience)
To shorten my wait: any tips for water/additive combo, or composition?
I'll have to add some antifreeze or smtg against alea, as i'll have external rad so there'll be some light getting through tubes...
Oh, its gonna be looong two+ weeks :/

One more question:
Is this setup strong enough for another 4870x2?
My guess is yes, but wanna know more educated opinions :)
 
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only ptnuke or similar and destilled water best mix there is since destilled water transfer heat better than if you add stuff to it like antifreeze and stuff like that
 
get automotive style clamps too. They work much better thn anything that comes with the kits. Those plastic ones suck. I use the automotice clamps and have never has a single leak. (there wll be a puddle of water on the floor when i get home now ive said that)
 
Just find out about PC Ice, non-conductive cooling liquid with thermal params of water ~2C.
sounds GREAT, anyone has any experience with it?
 
Many have used other liquids. Some have success. Many don't. Clogged blocks, stained tubing, color and UV ability goes away in a few weeks or so.

You have stumbled on what I call 'hype advertising'. You can go ahead and use the other liquids, but it's not needed and gives no added temp benefits, I CAN say that with almost 100% certainty.

Many have discovered after trying these 'magic' fluids over a few years of watercooling, tinkering, etc that good ol' distilled water and a few drops of biocide is all thats needed. Heck, there is a liquid on the market thats so thick it slows the flow rates and increases temps. But imagine what the advertising says, not that.

Up to you, on this board, at xtreme systems and Overclock.net you can search the forums and read the fun things and pretty pictures of peoples tubes and blocks. You'll even find a liquid or two that peeps actually like, and seems to hold up pretty well. Uhh and there is colored and UV tubing, so you can get the bling and none of the hassle. Danger Den sells the tubing, as other places probably do.

Of course, distilled water and funny dyes and UV stuff plus other additives can make funny things happen too.
 
Thermochill PA120.3 comes with 3/4 holes, I guess I need some kind of reduction to 1/2 tubing? Any examples?
Once again, could this setup possibly cool another 4870x2?
 
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